Hemp seed oil has moved well beyond niche status and earned a steady place in cosmetic formulations that call for a light, non-comedogenic plant oil with barrier-supporting performance. For a formulator or contract manufacturer, the details that matter are technical: the correct INCI name, the fatty-acid profile, behavior in an emulsion, color and odor, oxidative stability, and packaging requirements. This article looks at our cold-pressed green oil from that angle — as a raw material for face oils, serums, cream emulsions, lip balms, soaps, and hair-care products.
INCI Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil: how the ingredient appears on the label
In the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, hemp oil is designated as "Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil." That qualifier is the key point: this is specifically a seed oil, not an extract of leaves, flowers, or cannabinoids. Industrial hemp seed oil contains no narcotic substances — this is confirmed by laboratory analysis, and the THC content stays within the limits set by law. For labeling and product registration, this is a fundamental boundary: seed oil is a food-grade and cosmetic raw material with a clear legal status.
For the formulator, this means a simple, predictable line on the ingredient list. The INCI "Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil" accurately reflects the nature of the ingredient, does not mislead the consumer, and requires no additional disclaimers about cannabinoids — which are essentially absent from seed oil. That convenience extends to private-label brands launching the product under their own name.
Fatty-acid profile: why the oil works on the skin barrier
The cosmetic properties of hemp seed oil follow directly from its fatty-acid profile. This is an oil dominated by polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs) with a low content of saturated fats — which is exactly what gives it that light, "dry" feel on the skin. A typical hemp seed oil profile looks like this:
- Linoleic acid (omega-6) — roughly 50–60%, the dominant component;
- Alpha-linolenic acid / ALA (omega-3) — roughly 15–20%;
- Gamma-linolenic acid / GLA (omega-6) — about 1–4%, rare among plant oils;
- Stearidonic acid / SDA (omega-3) — in a small amount;
- A low proportion of saturated acids.
In our cold-pressed green oil, the omega-6 to omega-3 ratio is approximately 3.5 : 1. That's an important characteristic: linoleic acid is a structural component of the skin's lipid barrier, and a deficiency of it is associated with impaired barrier function and transepidermal water loss. An oil rich in linoleic acid is therefore well suited to formulations that claim to support and restore the skin barrier. The presence of rare gamma-linolenic acid adds further value — a useful argument for premium positioning of a serum or oil concentrate.
A comedogenic rating of 0 and sebum balance
Hemp seed oil is classed among the non-comedogenic oils, with a comedogenic rating of 0. For anyone formulating products for oily, breakout-prone skin, that's a rare combination: a rich plant oil that nonetheless doesn't tend to clog pores. The reason lies in its linoleic-dominant profile. The sebum of people prone to oiliness is often depleted in linoleic acid, so oils high in it are perceived by the skin as "kindred" — they sink in easily and leave no film.
This points to logical application areas: light serums and oils for combination and oily skin, products for problem-prone skin, and lightweight emulsions. The formulations need to be built carefully: the oil contains components that can help support skin comfort and softening, but we use no medical phrasing and make no therapeutic claims — it is more accurate to speak of barrier support and softening.
Vitamin E, phytosterols, and the green tint from chlorophyll
Beyond fatty acids, unrefined oil carries a valuable accompanying fraction: tocopherols (vitamin E), phytosterols, and carotenoids. Vitamin E works both as an antioxidant for the formulation itself and as a skin-beneficial component. Phytosterols complement the barrier-supporting action.
Color deserves separate attention. The green tint comes from chlorophyll, and for the formulator that's a real technical factor, not a cosmetic afterthought. A light-green, unrefined product:
- tints transparent and pale emulsions a greenish or olive hue — something to account for in the formulation design and in expectations for the finished product's color;
- carries a distinctive grassy-nutty aroma, which is either played up as a natural marker or masked with fragrance;
- makes the product look visibly "natural" — which often supports natural and clean-beauty positioning.
Oxidative stability: how to formulate and package
The high PUFA content is hemp seed oil's strength and, at the same time, its technical limitation. Polyunsaturated acids are more prone to oxidation, so the oil has moderate oxidative stability and calls for sound handling in both formulation and logistics. Practical principles:
- Add antioxidants — tocopherols, rosemary extract, and the like — to protect the lipid phase;
- Don't use the oil in products that involve strong heating; it is not intended for high-temperature processes;
- Specify opaque or tinted packaging (airless bottles, dark glass) to limit light exposure;
- Store both raw material and finished product cool and dark, and monitor shelf life;
- Factor in the oxidative load when calculating shelf life and running stability tests.
When these conditions are met, the oil performs reliably across a wide range of formats — from anhydrous oil-based blends to emulsions.
Specific formulations and indicative use levels
Below are typical application areas for cold-pressed green oil, with indicative inclusion levels. Exact figures are tuned to the specific formulation and goal, but these ranges provide a practical starting point:
- Face oils and serums — as a base oil or one of the key oils, from 5–10% up to a substantial share of the oil phase; it brings out a light texture and a barrier-supporting profile;
- Cream emulsions — typically 2–8% in the oil phase as an emollient and conditioning component; account for its effect on color and aroma;
- Lip balms — combined with hard waxes and butters for pliability and nourishment;
- Soap — suitable for saponification; used as part of the fat base (often 5–15%), with the PUFA share kept in check so as not to reduce the bar's hardness and durability; calculate the formula via the saponification (SAP) value;
- Hair care — oils, leave-in treatments, conditioners: light application, conditioning the lengths and ends without weighing the hair down.
Why unrefined, cold-pressed oil specifically matters
Cold pressing without refining is a deliberate choice for premium-grade cosmetic raw material. Refining and deodorizing lighten the oil and remove its odor, but in doing so they deplete the accompanying fraction — the tocopherols, phytosterols, carotenoids, and chlorophyll that make the oil valuable in the first place. Unrefined, cold-pressed oil retains the maximum of these components and the honest, "natural" character of the product.
The flip side of that honesty is the very traits described above: the green color, the pronounced aroma, and the need to protect against oxidation. These are not shortcomings but properties of a natural ingredient that must be deliberately accounted for in the formulation and in consumer communication. Brands that bet on naturalness and ingredient transparency usually come out ahead by turning the green tint and nutty aroma into part of their positioning.
Makosh raw material for cosmetic formulations
The Makosh plant — Russia's first full-cycle facility for the deep processing of industrial hemp seeds — produces cold-pressed green oil with the cosmetic INCI "Cannabis Sativa Seed Oil": unrefined, light-green from chlorophyll, with an omega-6 to omega-3 ratio of about 3.5 : 1 and a low saturated-fat content. Production is certified to FSSC 22000 / ISO 22000, the products are backed by valid declarations of conformity, and the THC and cannabidiol content is laboratory-confirmed. For formulators, contract manufacturers, and private-label brands, this means a predictable, documented, and consistent raw material. Technical specifications, datasheets, and samples are available on request — see the Makosh catalogue and quality section for details.
This is what we make
Our own full-cycle plant in the Uzlovaya SEZ. Wholesale, EAEU documents, 0% THC.
Hulled hemp hearts (separated)
Protein over 30% · omega-3/6
Cold-pressed green hemp seed oil
Omega-6 : omega-3 = 3.5 : 1
Hemp protein flour
Protein 40–45 g/100 g
We’ll match a product to your production need and send samples with documents.